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American Wet Dream 

American Wet Dream 

5.10b R

   

FA: Clevenger, Accomazzo, McCabe, and Teske- 8/74
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 500 feet
Season: Summer and Fall
Views: 132 page views

Submitted By: Robert Mooring on Sep 29, 2008


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Josh F. on the first pitch of American Wet Dream


Description 

Every belay is at a ledge, several HUGE. The route staircases left. Technical crux is crack switch to start the 3rd pitch. Fourth pitch has about 15 feet of 10a protected by a bolt at the bottom, and horrendously flexing flakes above that. A fall here would smack you on a slabby ledge. Tops out with some standard 5.7R slab.


Location 

Starts in some water funnels that lead to an obvious 5.9 hands bulge. After 5th pitch head up 4th class for a bit then descend left down ledges.


Protection 

.3 to 3 inches. Belay at top of third is bolted.



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Josh F. on the third pitch of American Wet Dream.

Josh F. on the third pitch of American Wet Dream.


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By Robert Mooring
From: Oakland, Ca
Jun 22, 2009

Yesterday my man Henry fished in a damn good purple c3 on the left side of the 10a r corner- about a body length above the bolt- making it much less runout.

By Tyler Logan
From: Running Springs
Oct 4, 2009

Pitch one has some cool crack moves over a small bulge. Pitch two, though short, seemed to have the most technical moves. Third pitch is sustained but well-protected--you can place a medium-sized nut way above your head before the crux. The "R" pitch was neither dangerous, difficult, or scary compared to the rest.

By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 27, 2009

this route is so much fun. Highly recommended and safe with modern gear.