Black Angel 

FA:  Chris Falkenstein and Don Reid, July 1979 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 65 feet Views: 258 page views Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 21, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

A good challenging lieback/finger crack climb. Bust a powerful, awkward move off the ground and continue underclinging, jamming, and liebacking the awesome right-angling crack to the top.

Location 

Just west of Stately Pleasure Dome. Park just east of the Murphy Creek picnic area. The route, a right-angling fingercrack/flake that intersects a prominent black streak, faces southwest and will be visible from the road.

Protection 

Lots of small stuff. I took:
Doubles from blue alien to .75 camalot
Single #1 and #2

There's no anchor on top, so bring 2 extra .75 camalots + 1 #12 BD Stopper for the anchor on top, + 3 long slings for extending the pieces over a blunt edge. If you're going to run laps, this makes a great TR anchor.