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Olmstead Canyon
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Ivory Tower, Center 
Ivory Tower, Left 
Lord Caffeine 
Tideline 

Lord Caffeine 

5.10d

   
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FA: Urmas and Becky Franosch, Bruce Morris
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 177 page views

Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Aug 9, 2008


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Description 

A fine awkward and flaring right leaning crack climb. Depending on your strengths and weaknesses, you may find a different crux than your friends. I find all sections hard! Pants and long sleeves recommended.


Location 

Left end of the Tideline area in Olmstead. Look for the obvious right-leaning splitter in a section of black rock.


Protection 

From fingers up to a #4 camalot.



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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Aug 24, 2009

One of my favorites. Mix of fingerlocks, heel -toes, tip layback and chicken wings.
Consists of 5 different parts.

First part is basically insecure face climb until you enter into wide section
Second part left side in short ow -10ft
Third exiting from wide part and relatively good fingers for average hands until you get good handjam rest just under the crux. This section can be hard for small fingers.
Forth : the crux of the route - two powerful moves very thin - tip layback until you get good fingerlock
Fifth : exit as chimney with chicken wings

This route take offset nuts very well. Took me 3 times until redpont. At first it was feeling that Lord Caffein is harder than Tideline, but not anymore