Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Medlicott Dome East End
Show routes:
Select route...
Donuts 
Excellent Smithers 
Goldmember 
Lighter Side, The 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) 
Scorpion 
Shagadelic 
Super Chicken 
Wailing Wall 
Yawn, The 

Shagadelic 

5.8

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 500 feet
Views: 375 page views

Submitted By: Karl K on Aug 5, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Great knob climbing on the second pitch. September...


Description 

P1 - climb corner straight up (hand traverse from the right seems silly?), then up gully trending left. Before it gets too vegetated, clip the piton and bolts as you climb the face to the left of the gully to the top of the pillar. Bolted anchors are near the edge of the cliff (not back at the main wall). Will want small/medium cams to supplement bolts on the face. ~140' 5.7
P2 - Walk to the main wall & climb a small flake for ~15'. Climb the wonderful knobs up, left, and then back right. Just follow the bolts (10 bolts?) to the anchor. ~150' 5.7
P3 - Another bolted pitch, basically straight up. When you see the two bolts about 6 feet apart you know the 5.8 crux is upon you. 10 bolts? & Anchor. 140' 5.8
Either rappel the route from here (3 double rope rappels) or continue to the top:
P4 - Cross to the right side of the dike & find a tiny horizonal pod about 10' up and 5' right of the anchors. You can climb straight up from here to the roof (5.7) or wander a few feet right to go up 5.5 terrain. Turn the easy roof (5.2) with great pro & follow ledges & flakes up and right to the top of the dome.


Location 

Probably easiest to identify by finding the pine tree 70' feet up the cliff (and 20-30' left of the climbing line). Blocky Class 2 leads to the starting ledge.
Descent- rappel from P3 or walk right to end of dome after topping out.


Protection 

Normal rack & at least 10 quickdraws.



Comments on Shagadelic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dra-go-nee
Aug 18, 2008

Both bolted pitches take 10 draws, no trad.