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Lamb Dome
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Jailbreak Finish 
Little Sheeba 
On the Lamb 

On the Lamb 

5.9

   

FA: Brossman & Stephans - 1974
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 4 pitches
Views: 709 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006


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Clint Locks On the Lamb, crux pitch.


Description 

On the Lamb is a very unique and classic traverse across the upper face of Lamb Dome. Perhaps the only climb in Tuolumne where 95% of the holds are jugs. What makes it difficult is that occasionally the feet disappear.

The feature appears to be an enormous horizontal dike that has split apart to form an incut crack.

P1: Ascend a 5.0 low angle crack system to a nice ledge at the start of the traverse.

P2: Climb off to the right at 5.4 with minimal gear to the beginning of the crack itself. Stretch the rope out and belay at the best stance you can find.

P3: Traverse right. Save small cams for the crux. Belay after turning the corner into a right-facing dihedral, or stretch the rope further to a better stance.

P4: Continue traversing right and eventually end up on easy terrain leading to the descent. Alternatively, climb the excellent Jailbreak Finish, or reverse the entire traverse for more fun.

Finding the route is somewhat difficult (moreso than most other climbs in the Meadows). It's good to do this climb with someone who's been there before, or allow extra time to locate the start.


Protection 

Standard rack; include wires and small cams.



Add Photo Photos of On the Lamb
Yours truly belaying Greg Barnes on the first pitch of On the Lamb

Yours truly belaying Greg Barnes on the first pitc...

My second cleaning through the crux On the Lamb.

My second cleaning through the crux On the Lamb.

Again, cleaning through the crux of On The Lamb.

Again, cleaning through the crux of On The Lamb.


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By Jeff V
From: Martinez
Dec 5, 2007

Great climb, lots of exposure. Same situation for leader and follower, both subject to pendulum falls. Don't do this one unless both are experienced leaders. My old buddy Bruce Brossman did the FA. They used pins and the crack use to have some fixed gear. All clean now. Very exciting climb!!

By Greg DeMatteo
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 7, 2008

Such a unique route. Great name, great exposure. What more do you want? Its a 2 pitch hand-rail!

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Apr 23, 2008

The route description says traverse right, traverse right. But all of the pictures show everybody leading left. I'm confused...(again)...