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Lembert Dome-Northwest Face
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Crying Time Again 
Direct Northwest Face 
Northwest Books 

Direct Northwest Face 

5.10c

   

FA: FFA: Mark and Beverly Powell, 1962
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 520 feet
Views: 265 page views

Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jun 6, 2007


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Near the beginning of the crux pitch


Description 

An awesome crack route that is generally well-protected. Very memorable views and climbing.
3rd class up (about 150') to the base of the most obvious cracks on the NW Face and build a belay.
p1- Climb a great crack to a 5.9 overlap. Pull the overlap. Book says to stop here. We continued through the next great 5.8 crack section and stopped on a roomy ledge. Right at the end of the 60m, but we could've third-classed in higher from the ground. 5.9, 200'.
p2- Climb great 5.8 fingers to a .10a hands section. The book says to belay here at a small ledge. W/ a 60, it's easy to gun it through the .10c thin crack to a good ledge. Belay here where the crack peters out. Have some smaller nuts to back up the piton with. 5.10c, 170'.
p3- Work up to the top of the flake off the belay ledge and piece together a route through the face to the crack above and right. 5.9, 50'.
NOTE- w/ a 70, you might be able to link pitches two and three in a marathon pitch.


Location 

Walk off the back side down the obvious low-angle route.


Protection 

I took doubles from the .1 camalot to a #2 camalot, with a single three.



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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2007

A quality route, not at all sustained, good protection at the two crux moves, great route to push your limit.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.10

Definitely a gimmie for the grade. Still a worthy route to spend some time on.

By 426
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.10b

Super fun with a few cranks.

By Nick Stayner
From: Jackson, WY
Apr 19, 2008

To echo everyone else...this thing was WAY easy for the grade, especially compared to something like Lunatic Fringe in the Valley (another 10c thin crack).