Looking down at the middle belay from the top bela...
Description
This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.
Location
The first route on the Northwest Face of Lembert Dome when approaching from the parking area. Ascends the obvious broken section just right from where the wall turns very steep.
P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.
P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.
Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet)
Protection
Tree/shrub anchor for belay 1,2, and gear anchor for the top.
Cams to 2.5" (optional #3&4, not really necessary) set of nuts long slings
By C Miller Administrator Sep 25, 2007 rating: 5.6
This is a good route worth doing if you don't have much time and want to get in a few more pitches. The 5.9 variation (on pitch 1) mentioned is short, well-protected and seemed the logical way to go as I recall.
By Greg DeMatteo From: Flagstaff, Az Apr 7, 2008 rating: 5.6
A terrific way to zip up Lembert Dome in time for a glorious Tuolumne sunset!
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