Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Stately Pleasure Dome
Show routes:
Select route...
Black Angel 
Boltway 
Death Crack 
Dixie Peach 
Eunuch 
Footnote 
Great White Book 
Hermaphrodite Flake 
South Crack 
Sweet Nothings 
Table of Contents 
West Country 

Boltway 

5.8

   

FA: Marty Steiger, 7/92
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 557 page views

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 27, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Pitch 2 of Boltway. Alfred Kwok up into the easie...


Description 

The Boltway begins from the top of Hermaphrodite flake. 5.8 slab climbing that is never to difficult and the bolts always appear just when you want one. Although some of the bolts are very suspect, there are plenty of them. Great views and exposure!


Location 

The route starts from the top of Hermaphrodite Flake, to the right of the anchors. Follow the bolt line pretty much straight up to the stance 3 bolt belay. From here continue up past 2 new beefy metolius bolts (5.8 crux) then to the left a bit to gain the micro crack. Follow this up until you see a bolt on your left. Follow these last two bolts up to easier ground (4th then 3rd class).

Descend the route by heading up and left towards a big tree by the headwall. Most downclimb the whole dome, but there are a couple raps you can do to make things easier / safer.

Generally, hug the headwall and keep downclimbing the 3rd and 4th class slabs.


Protection 

First pitch off Hermaphrodite Flake: 9 bolts to 3 bolt anchor w/ rap rings.
Second Pitch: 4 bolts total and micro to 3" cams. Natural belay wherever is convenient.



Photos of Boltway Slideshow Add Photo
Yay for button heads!

Yay for button heads!

Frank Baker leading the Boltway

Frank Baker leading the Boltway

Nick on the boltway

Nick on the boltway