BETA PHOTO: Holdless Horror. Prominent crack in center of pho...
Description
P1: Start on the face just right of the bush growing out of the bottom of the crack. Climb up to first horizontal ledge, or, further up to the next smaller one (80 or 100 feet?) and build a belay anchor. 5.6. P2: The "business" pitch. Climb up and mitigate impending horror by using the "holdless" terrain rather than get engulfed in the people eatin', imposing crack. Busy, but, never hard and the pro is decent if you take the time to find the money spots. 5.7. P3: The fun 5.6 pitch. Great climbing that gets steep and improbable looking, but, always a nice foot and/or hand hold to help you out. P4: Final easy fifth class romp to the top. Can climb far enough up to set belay for a safe walk off following the pitch. Low angle, one short roof near the end of the pitch. Great gear, but, somewhat spread out between bomber placements.
Historically significant as the first technical rock climbing route on this Dome. Great name, too. Classic TMH.
Location
Climb is located on the west side of Dozier Dome. Look for the crack system, left of the big diagonal break in the wall, kind of in the middle of the big flat face, which extends all the way to the ground. Is a large green bush in the bottom of the crack. Crack is distinctive as its the only one on this side of the Dome that continues down below (and through) the horizontal ledge all the way to ground level. Prominent crack system viewable from a distance. Goes straight up.
Summit area has great views of Cathedral Peak area and surrounding domes.
The hike down is bonus, and, for some folks, easily as quality as the climbing. If conditions permit, hike to Cathedral Lake and then follow the water course down, taking the path of least resistance. Beautiful hike on its own. Near the bottom, where Dozier Dome starts to appear to melt into the forest on the climber's left, cut over to the base of the dome to pick up packs, if left at the base (and/or to pick up the well-marked climber's trail back to the car). Easy, fun hike with improbable positions and great scenery. Could spend a bunch of time playing around down climbing low angle friction faces, or, walking around to the left or right.
Protection
Standard rack. Nuts and single set of cams from small (1 TCU) to a #4 camalot. No fixed gear. No anchors.
RSS Feed
