Approach Time: 2-3 hours Descent Time: 2-3 hours Time to climb the route: 3-6 hours Sun Exposure: sunrise to late afternoon Height of route: ~500', length 1/2 mile to North Summit or 0.8 miles to the end.
Generally, people do the traverse from South to North. This is because the crest slopes upwards in that direction and therefore you will end up at a higher elevation. Doing it North to South would involve more downclimbing.
Probably best to Simul or Solo much of the route. To rope up for every single pitch would take a horrendous amount of time.
Start the climb at the South face above a patch of pine trees and stay a bit left. The climbing is <5.6 here and climbs very textured / featured rock upwards onto the ridge. Follow the path of least resistance. Once on the crest itself, just follow it along. When in doubt, check out both sides of the crest and traverse along the easier one. The crux of the climb comes on the left side (West) of the crest directly below the South Summit. Strenuous and physical climbing up a good crack leads to easier climbing and then the summit. Sign the register.
From the South Summit: Do not rap, but rather climb back down the ridgetop for 100' and traverse past on easy ledges on the East side of the South Summit. Trying to rap often results in snagged ropes here. OR Simply continue the travers and downclimb the next section, placing pro for the follower.
From the North Summit: Many parties stop here and rappel off the crest (2 double length rappels on the West side). There are many rap stations that appear so bring some webbing in case the stations need new webbing.
Continuing the climb offers great climbing, but the climbing difficulty increases so it is recommended you be solid at the grade. I'd say some of the downclimbing was 5.8.
Retreat: It is probably best to bail off the West side at just about any point. There appear to be many rap stations at random intervals on the face. Multiple short rappels are best. Be prepared to leave slings and or gear.
Location
Start at the extreme south end right above a patch of pine trees. Climb the face to the ridge then continue either to the North Summit or the end.
Protection
Light Alpine Rack
Nuts: 1 set Cams: 1 each 0.5" - 1", 2 each 1.25" - 3" Many Long Slings
Add PhotoPhotos of Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North
On the South Summit w/ the register (8/12/07).
View down the South Summit crux pitch. A group of...
East face of Matthes Crest.
Camille and I take a break on Matthes to watch Bri...
Camille fishing something out of her pack, near th...
Duke with Conness in the background.
Duke looking tough on Matthes. We just climbed Uni...
Jake on The Matthes Crest Traverse.
Looking back at the North summit from the 2nd half...
Matthes from 13,500 ft. June 16, 2008.
Nearing the South summit on the Mathes Crest trave...
Add CommentComments on Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North
Show which comments —
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Aug 15, 2007
Hey Jordan, nice write up!
I was thinking about adding this myself, because I was in the group of three that you guys passed. Awesome day out there! You guys were flyin'.
Only a couple things I'd add: I think the second half of the traverse is significantly harder. more 5th class, and most of it is downclimbing. I do feel however, that you can protect it pretty well for the follower, you just have to be thoughtful and put in a piece after you do a downclimb move.
Because it was more technical, I placed more gear on the 2nd half, which meant we had to stop and tag gear more, which slowed us down. But, I think the better climbing is on the second half, and you're missing out if you rap halfway.
Finally, we started our day by simuling up Tenaya peak and then going cross country to Matthes, I would highly recommend this! More climbing (easy) and you get to tag another summit.
Our rack was 12 nuts and 6 cams, buncha slings. it was 7 cams but my friend dropped one. Oops!
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Aug 15, 2007
We did the fast and light approach. Our rack was two OP link cams (used only 1 once), a set of nuts, a bunch of slings and a 7 mil twin rope doubled over. Tim climbs super fast so I was running to keep up.
One of the most memorable climbs I have done. We did it North to South. There was some very exposed and tricky downclimbing involved, checking in at least 5.8 maybe 5.9. Anyway it was intense and I felt like there was a real possibilty to get the chop. The grade of the climb is really irrelevant. This climb is an abosulte thing of beauty. I have a Patagonia poster framed in my living room of this climb that Bird Lew signed for me. I look at it everyday and smile remembering what was one of the best days I've had in my life.
Matthes Crest
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