A strange but enjoyable route. Cruxes on the third and fourth pitches (check out the photo in the latest guidebook). p1- Follow a straight-in handish crack to a shallow left facing corner. Mildly flaring jams. Short. 70', 5.8. p2- Continue up this corner liebacking and sometimes jamming to a 10' slab traverse left towards an obvious ledge. Locate a pin and a pod for a purple camalot to belay off of. 140', 5.9 p3- Follow an easier right-facing corner up to the "6 foot" roof. It didn't seem quite that big, but my feet definitely cut. Clip a pin for protection and go for it. The pitch ends at bolts. 110', .10a. p4- Climb some 5.10 slab moves up ever-mellowing terrain to a two-bolt belay. 100', 5.10a.
Location
You can see the roof you're aiming for from the ground. Follow the corners up to it. Walk off to the left and descend the gully to the looker's left of Harlequin Dome.
Protection
A wide range of gear. A fixed pin in the roof and bolts on the final slab pitch.
1st two pitches link easily with 70m rope, and maybe even with a 60.
3rd pitch moves well right out the arch so sling looong and protect sparingly or suffer heinous rope drag. I had to do the move, lower down and unclip the two pins and redo the move, and the ropedrag for bringing up the second was still terrible much of the pitch.
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