Hoodwink 

FA:  Jim Bridwell, Rodger Breedlove, '72 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  4 pitches, 420 feet Views: 208 page views Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jun 6, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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eric collins leading the hoodwink roof

Description 

A strange but enjoyable route. Cruxes on the third and fourth pitches (check out the photo in the latest guidebook).
p1- Follow a straight-in handish crack to a shallow left facing corner. Mildly flaring jams. Short. 70', 5.8.
p2- Continue up this corner liebacking and sometimes jamming to a 10' slab traverse left towards an obvious ledge. Locate a pin and a pod for a purple camalot to belay off of. 140', 5.9
p3- Follow an easier right-facing corner up to the "6 foot" roof. It didn't seem quite that big, but my feet definitely cut. Clip a pin for protection and go for it. The pitch ends at bolts. 110', .10a.
p4- Climb some 5.10 slab moves up ever-mellowing terrain to a two-bolt belay. 100', 5.10a.

Location 

You can see the roof you're aiming for from the ground. Follow the corners up to it. Walk off to the left and descend the gully to the looker's left of Harlequin Dome.

Protection 

A wide range of gear. A fixed pin in the roof and bolts on the final slab pitch.

Add Photo Photos of Hoodwink

Josh about to commit to the roof on Hoodwink.

Josh over the roof on Hoodwink.