Awesome moderate knob pulling. Even though this climb has bolts I would not consider it a sport climb. The bolts can be almost impossible to see at times even if they are five feet in front of you. The last pitch has several different options. 5.9 R or 10a safely bolted.
Location
This route starts to the left of The Northwest Face route. Walk off the top slab and back around
As of 7/21/07, I think somebody pinched the rap ring from the bolts at the top. I left a biner to make the rope pull easier, but that might get pinched too. Would suggest somebody replacing this with a big rap ring.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Sep 12, 2007
Several pitches can be linked with a 60 meter rope. We did this climb in three long pitches, although I would not at all recommend this! The first and second pitches were easy links. The third and fourth, it really sucked! REALLY BAD ROPE DRAG! The fifth and sixth were good to link up (we did the 10a variation). So if you want to link pitches, I would recommend doing it in four pitches rather than three (1 and 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6).
A Crying Time rack: one red C3, one blue TCU, one green C4 and a red or yellow C4 (for the anchor below the 5.9 knobs pitch), 6 draws, 6 slings with two biners on each. To avoid rope drag (with a 60m rope): link P1 & P2, belaying at two bolts just below and right of the first 5.9 move; belay again on the large ledge below the 5.9 knobs pitch (anchor with Camalots) - a short 70' pitch; then 3 more pitches to the top, each belay at a two bolt anchor.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jul 20, 2009 rating: 5.10a PG13
Fabulous face climbing. A must do.
We linked as Anthony describes (1 and 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6) and it worked perfectly.
The only true runout move on the climb is the 5.7 mantle after the crux on P2. A fall from there would be bad. The rest of the route was very well protected.
Bring a light rack - nuts and one set of small to #2 camalot. Most, if not all, the gear is placed on P1/P2. All anchors are fixed if you link as described.
By cory132 From: Torrance Sep 7, 2009 rating: 5.9+ PG13
This climb is fantastic. Every pitch was fun to climb. We did the Cry Baby variation to the 1st pitch, which was fun climbing with enough distance between bolts to get your attention. The mantel move on the third (second for us) pitch isn't that bad. The tricky moves are actually before the mantel when you're still fairly close to the bolt. The last "10a" pitch felt pretty soft for .10a, it's bolted like a gym climb and you basically follow a series of large positive edges up a steep wall.
By Dustin B From: North Routt, CO Sep 24, 2009 rating: 5.10-
Great route. There was a conga line up the direct route and my partner and I climbed this as a backup. Turned out to be a blessing. We had the route to ourselves. Much more asthetic line than the direct and the climbing was excellent. Guess that pesky 'R' letter in supertaco kinda keeps the crowds away. Also, we linked the pitches as 1,2&3,4,5&6. Went nice and smooth, not much drag.
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