Awesome moderate knob pulling. Even though this climb has bolts I would not consider it a sport climb. The bolts can be almost impossible to see at times even if they are five feet in front of you. The last pitch has several different options. 5.9 R or 10a safely bolted.
Location
This route starts to the left of The Northwest Face route. Walk off the top slab and back around
As of 7/21/07, I think somebody pinched the rap ring from the bolts at the top. I left a biner to make the rope pull easier, but that might get pinched too. Would suggest somebody replacing this with a big rap ring.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Sep 12, 2007
Several pitches can be linked with a 60 meter rope. We did this climb in three long pitches, although I would not at all recommend this! The first and second pitches were easy links. The third and fourth, it really sucked! REALLY BAD ROPE DRAG! The fifth and sixth were good to link up (we did the 10a variation). So if you want to link pitches, I would recommend doing it in four pitches rather than three (1 and 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6).
A Crying Time rack: one red C3, one blue TCU, one green C4 and a red or yellow C4 (for the anchor below the 5.9 knobs pitch), 6 draws, 6 slings with two biners on each. To avoid rope drag (with a 60m rope): link P1 & P2, belaying at two bolts just below and right of the first 5.9 move; belay again on the large ledge below the 5.9 knobs pitch (anchor with Camalots) - a short 70' pitch; then 3 more pitches to the top, each belay at a two bolt anchor.
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