The Yawn 

Anyone who sees this route up close will be impressed by it, even if they have no desire to climb it. Amazing line. Route-finding on the first pitch is tricky (no, you don't just find the corner and climb it). The standard start begins right of the corner and climbs up broken, somewhat-vegetated cracks and ledge systems to the quality crux headwall (which is still right of the true corner). Route-finding on the 2nd pitch is a no-brainer. Follow the steep, intimidating wide crack as it goes from surprisingly positive jams to awkward, leaning nothingness. The Reid guide describes the final pitch as a "crack in a corner that climbers dream about." I'd say the 2nd pitch is also the kind of pitch climbers dream about, but I'd call these dreams nightmares.

I'd say the 2nd pitch ranks with Reeds Direct in the Valley as a top contender for hardest 5.9 of all time.

Gear is excellent. Bring a lot of 3" for the final pitch, and consider taking a couple large cams for the offwidth.

Good training for climbing the Salathe Wall on El Cap.

A bunch of big nuts would really keep your rack light and bomber on this routes' knobby, convergent flakes. Hardly any small ones, though.