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5.11b/c

   

FA: Errett Allen, Jeff Maudlin, Budd Keane
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
Views: 150 page views

Submitted By: RichLarge on Dec 30, 2006


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Description 

1. 5.11a - short pitch, Climb up the brush covered ledge and look for a single bolt that protects a difficult face move left to a small ledge at the base of a right facing corner. Use large cams for the anchor.
2. 5.10c, Climb up the corner in thin cracks (10c), then up into a wide chimney with a hand crack on one side. Continue up and out of the chimney to a point where you can traverse right to a nice ledge with bolted anchor.
3. 5.11b/c, Traverse back left into the crack system and follow it a point where the crack peters out in a shallow dihedral. Follow bolts up and left on steep, thin edge face climbing (crux), eventually reaching another right leaning easy ramp. You can continue up the ramp to the summit but it may be better to belay here to prevent too much drag.


Location 

Look for a low angle brush covered ledge that runs up and right from the base of the south face.
Hike east, then south to descend.


Protection 

Standard rack to 4.5 inch.