First pitch is a nice warm up. The 2nd pitch is why this route is great. It starts steep and technical and stays that way for about 70 feet. There's a bolt about 2/3s up that is your pro for some thin slab moves. They called this R before, but with small cams and nuts, you can pro it just fine. Might be PG-13 to some, but for the area it's not. 3 pitch is a nice crack out.
Location
North side of the dome. Look for the slab up to a ledge below a black water streak.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 23, 2007 rating: 5.9
4 pitches of technical climbing.
The 5.8 runout on pitch 2 feels runout not because of the distance between pro, but because a fall will propel you over an overhang and onto the slab below--which will surely hurt. The consequence of a fall is not merely a long slide.
The second pitch is simply superb. However, I do not see how you could pro up anywhere on the face after leaving the bolt and before making the crack at the end.
We chose the 5.9 bolted-to-5.6 R start: the best option to start p1 I think!
I'd say the scare factor is somewhere between PG13 and R on just a section or two.
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