BETA PHOTO: The Phobos crack in its entirety. A great full le...
Description
Phobos is the sustained, three pitch climb on the left end of the cliff. It is reported to be the better quality of the two climbs for which the wall is named.
P1: Climb up a crack to a left-facing corner and roof system. Pull through the roof with strenuous stems and jams -- there's usually fixed gear here -- and continue up to an uncomfortable belay in the crack system. 5.9+
P2: Climb the steep, twin cracks to another belay. 5.9
P3: Continue straight up off the belay in a wide crack/chimney system past some hollow sounding features to a slab. It is possible to escape right on this slab via run out climbing, but nicer to continue straight up through the headwall. 5.9
The first two pitches can be done--and should be done--in one two hundred foot rope stretcher. With a 60m rope, you will just barely make it to the ledge. To climb it in one pitch, be sure to use long runners through the roof--or better, back clean.
This is the way I did this climb the first time. It was great! It makes for a nice long adventure pitch where you can really zone out and climb for (almost) ever.
Darshan
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Feb 7, 2007
Pitch 1 is 5.9+++ = 10b.
By Greg DeMatteo From: Flagstaff, Az Apr 7, 2008 rating: 5.9+
A great route, but the first pitch is strenuous, steep and tricky for 5.9, I'd call it 5.10. Maybe it's a bit height dependent. While it's technically possibly to do both pitch 1,2 in one pitch you would need lots of gear and have to manage the drag over the roof. The pitch 2 handcracks take #2 camalots almost anywhere so bring 3 or more, #3s fit in fewer spots. I Went up with two #1,#2, #3s and got flamed bumping the #2s but also plugged a 1, 3. After the cracks merge the climbing eases and more gear options open up.
Also, to have a comfortable belay after pitch one, bring a #4 and 5. Sadly I had to take a hanging belay off the bail slings further down and it sucked.
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