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West Crack 

5.9

   

FA: Frank Sacherer, 7/63.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 5 pitches
Views: 2,552 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 13, 2006


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Brad Davidson on pitch one.


Description 

About 100 feet left of "Crescent Arch" is a this beautiful crack that extends almost unbroken for 400 feet. The crux is about 20 feet off the ground, protected by a bolt. The route is obvious.


Protection 

Stoppers and small to medium cams.



Photos of West Crack Slideshow Add Photo
"West Crack".<br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: "West Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.


Tamara nearing the end of p1's steep diagonal finger crack!  At this point one can escape straight up on 5.8 face moves.

Tamara nearing the end of p1's steep diagonal fing...

Chuck on p3's steep sustained fingers crack!  Awesome pitch!

Chuck on p3's steep sustained fingers crack! Awes...

Pitch 3

Pitch 3

Jonny having a blast on P-3.<br /><br />What an awesome climb!

Jonny having a blast on P-3.

What an awesome clim...


West Crack, DAFF

BETA PHOTO: West Crack, DAFF

Nice hand crack!

Nice hand crack!

Pitch one.  <br />The fun-ness!<br /><br />June 2009

Pitch one.
The fun-ness!

June 2009


A party on pitch 3 or 4, late in the day.

A party on pitch 3 or 4, late in the day.


Comments on West Crack Add Comment
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By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006

One of the most popular climbs in Tuolumne, for sure!
Last time I did it, we were the only party on it. A rare occation.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jul 23, 2007

That's absurd. I wouldn't bring anything bigger than a #3 for this route.

By Jeff V
From: Martinez
Dec 5, 2007

One of the few classic cracks in Tuolumne, bad thing is the approach and then to find 4 groups waiting. Sun hits it late in the day so a later start is ok. Careful on the walk off.

By EMT
May 14, 2008

So... Big cams?

I've seen guys with 2 #5's on this route! I've never brought anything over a #3 camalot. But, if you're not up for a little runout 5.6? (Very secure climbing) a big cam would give you some pro.

By Aerili
From: Reno, NV
Jul 6, 2009

The start of the second pitch is the burliest 5.8 move I've ever done! :-O

By Steve R.
Jul 16, 2009

Classic! cruiser 5.7 crack on P1 that just sucks up nuts. Solid roof moves that make you work. Used my #11 hex per SuperTopo suggestion.. Glad I brought my #4-used it to protect P2 during the offwidth/face stuff. Great views from the top!

By Sarah Kate
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2009

On the gear question: My partner dropped our #4.5 camalot while he was in the offwidth/chimney section of P2. He placed one #4 once and we both severely regret the size/weight of the rack that we brought.

I recommend: LOTS of nuts because, oh my gosh, the stunning granite takes it like nothing on earth. Fabulous passive pro. Bring doubles of camalots .5-2, a 3 and maybe a #4 if you like to be super-comfortable, but I wouldn't bother with big gear if I climbed it again.

By daniel c
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.9

Agree with others - std rack to #3. If you're in a hurry, stretch P2 into the finger crack section (go ~30 feet above two bolt anchor to left and set hanging belay) and finish in two more pitches (four total, 60m rope). While waiting, have fun watching climbers take on the roof at the start of P2. The desperate worm/squeeze chimney maneuver through the slot of the roof is precious

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+

I dust off my #11 hex for this route. Ability will dictate whether it is worth bringing the #4 BD- note that the climbing is on the face next to the large crack- not in it unless you like shredded skin and clothes. Finger crack on p3 is incredible.