A fun and unique route, with the rare chance for the some well-protected bolt clipping in the second pitch.
P1. Start straight up as per West Country, belaying just at the bottom of the MONSTER flake.
P2. Climb under, then through the flake. There's very little pro in there, but it's really easy and you won't go far with a fall. Exit the flake in about 80 feet, where there are two bolts (optional belay). Best to clip one of the bolts and keep going - clinging up the side to the top of the flake. Belay on top from two bolts.
P3. A nice long face climb past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt belay. Some of the bolts look a little old.
P4. A short runout face rejoins West Country on it's final pitch. Undercling an overlap until the crack runs out and the angle gets low.
The bolted thing is called "Boltway" 5.8 or 5.10a. For more information get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Aug 27, 2007
P2: You can climb the left side, right side, or up through the flake. Called Hermaphrodite flake because it goes both ways.
The Boltway (5.8) P3: (5.7) several bolts very shady, one is halfway out. The climbing is fairly secure and the bolts are pretty close by Tuolumne standards. Rap rings at the belay here.
P4: (5.8) The crux is the first two bolts from the three bolt belay, then an easy crack and several variations lead to the top.
No, no, no--don't climb under the flake! The most stellar, heady moves are definitely going right and laybacking it all the way--reap the exposure and runout, baby!! =)
Also, The Boltway is an excellent way to finish up the climbing. Very safely bolted by Tuolumne standards. The only sucky part is the descent off Stately Pleasure.
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