P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.
P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.
P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.
I just did this route. It is an excellent first Tuolumne lead for an intermediate climber with limited multi-pitch lead experience. Truly what earns this climb three stars is the sustained nature of the lieback. It may sound silly to say about a 5.7. lieback... but it doesn't let up. I might subtract 1/2 of a star from the 3 simply because the crux pitch is not a full rope length. Don't miss this one unless the lineup looks like a zoo.
Stately Pleasure Dome
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