The Great White Book. You can also see climbers s...
Description
A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.
P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.
Location
Park beside the dome and lake. The book should be obvious as long as you're not on the extreme east end of the dome.
Protection
The biggest pieces you got. A few bolts provided for anchors.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 26, 2006
Do not traverse left on the last pitch veering up and left across the open unprotected face unless you are a masochist. The unprotected chimneys were casual compared to that damn face. Continue straight up instead.
In my opinion this is one of the most overrated climbs in Tuolumne. Everyone does it, often as their first real lead, but it's run out and dangerous for inexperienced leaders. There are a half a dozen routes on this rock that are better climbs including: South Crack, Dixie Peach, Hermaphodite Flake, West Country, Table of Contents an others.
Great climb. Maybe too much beta in the description? Maybe not - it is a beta page after all. But I'm glad I didn't see this description before climbing the line.
Stately Pleasure Dome
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