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Stately Pleasure Dome

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Stately Pleasure Dome

Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006
Administrator: Greg Opland
Latitude: 37.8353  Longitude: -119.4600 
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BETA PHOTO: Routes facing the lake


Description 

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.


Getting There 

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. At one point you can rap a tree over the steepest section, though probably 50% of climbers just walk this part too. See photo.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stately Pleasure Dome:
Great White Book   5.6 R     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 450 feet   
West Country   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Boltway   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Hermaphrodite Flake   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
South Crack   5.8 R     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet   
Table of Contents   5.10d R     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400 feet   
Black Angel   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Browse More Classics in Stately Pleasure Dome

Featured Route For Stately Pleasure Dome
The Great White Book.  You can also see climbers starting West Country/Hermaphrodite Flake to the left.

Great White Book 5.6 R  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Stately Pleasure Dome
A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Stately Pleasure Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome

BETA PHOTO: Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome

Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake

Midway up the dome, down to Tenaya Lake

Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985.
Photo...


Stately Pleasure Dome, east side ©

BETA PHOTO: Stately Pleasure Dome, east side ©

Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake.
Photo by Blitz...


Moving up the finger crack

Moving up the finger crack

Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure Dome. <br /><br />Looking down at Tenaya Lake 6/10/08<br /><br />

Amazing views to be had from atop Stately Pleasure...

Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD.<br /><br />6/10/08

Jonny on the friction slab descent of the SPD.

6/...


Bath under the S. P. Dome

Bath under the S. P. Dome


Comments on Stately Pleasure Dome Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 28, 2006

The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge.