Darren leading 1st pitch (10-) of Wailing Banshees...
Description
Make a few hard moves off the ground and clip a bolt then continue upward over decent rock to the first anchor (apx. 70'). Pitch #2: Climb the crack up to where the corner shoots off right. Protect high in crack and then go right (crux) and fire up the corner. Continue up and place small (less than inspiring) gear where you can get it. The climbing becomes easier as you get higher and the gear gets better up high... You are then at the anchors of Scirocco. Make 2 raps to the ground via the lower anchors of Scirocco.
Location
Down and left of Thin Ice.
Protection
A larger hand sized piece before launching into the crux.
There is a third pitch of this route not mentioned in the description above. From the bolted anchors where Sirocco's arete pitch joins Wailing Banshees, a left curving, brown edged flake leads out on 5.10 D liebacks before curving back left again. This leads to easy(5.7 or so ) jug-hauling to the top of the Sorcerer. This is a very worthwhile pitch & should not be missed!
Levy is right, go left for a third and fourth pitch and you will not be dissapointed. The third pitch is sweet, with challenging but good gear. Pitch four my partner went left to an easy chimney, and because he didn't place gear I was able to top rope up the knobs that Levy mentions. I think that the knobs section was tough and would be hard to protect.
I have to second (and third) the above comments. Maybe the route description should be revised...? I think the route is not complete until you have done the 3rd pitch, then after that, you might as well top-out (not even sure retreat is possible, w/out leaving gear anyway). This is a classic route, and bailing after the 2nd pitch is not really "completing" it, imo.
RSS Feed
