George after taking an 80 footer, with his ripped ...
Description
Begin up airy interlude, and at the top of the corner (where you should build a big nest of cams) exit out left to a stance below the obvious seam/gutter. follow the increasingly desperate seam for about 35-40, until you're able to traverse left into ankles away. Continue to the top. Totally wicked.
Location
On the west face of the witch. Look for the water streaked line trending left from airy interlude towards ankles away.
Protection
For the initial corner- a few hand size, a green alien, yellow and gray for a nest at the top
For the seam- a purple TCU (newer one preferably) #3BD micro nut, #5BD micro nut
For ankles away- #1 stopper, #2 stopper, purple camalot
This is the gear we used, but it could probably be refined. Offset micros could be of help.
We've heard mixed reports on weather or not this had been climbed before us. If it has, and you know the name of the route and the FA, post up. I encourage people to check out this line, as it is amazing, and a few more ascents would clean it up a bit. Its quite serious though, and could easily get an X rating without perfectly placed gear.
An 80 foot whipper on a slab. I am sure I would not have got back on it. 12+ that's pretty impressive. 12+ slab is pretty freaking hard. I don't know you guys and I have not climbed the line you did so I am not saying it isn't 12+ but that is a big # for a slab. Have you guys climbed Carsonoma on Dome Rock. I put up some hard slabs routes but after a visit to Dome Rock I had to revise some route grades down.
I actually am not that concerned with the grade as going for it on something that run out on dubious pro gets all my respect. I never did anything that hard that didn't have a bolt close by.
You might try contacting Herb Laeger as he may have some info about the line and whether it has been climbed or not. Check out this sites people and email him or PM me and I will give you his PH #.
It was a headpoint, both george and i got it sussed on TR (alot of cleaning was required) before we tried to lead it. After about 4 days of effort, we both lead it clean, placing all gear on lead. After george took the 80 footer we both lost syke, but a week later we returned with new shoes and fired it. As for the grade its really hard to say. I was still falling off it on TR, even after I thought I had it wired. I geuss it could be anywhere from 11b to 13b- it really doesn't mater; its hard and scary.
Ron Carson worked on this line back in the day when he was a Needles regular. Of course he was both strong and brave enough to have done it, but I never heard that he actually did. Laeger might know. Greg Vernon, who I'll bet you can reach via Loomis, might know. One of those guys might know how to reach Ron, and get it "straight from the horses mouth."
Either way, your ascent is an outstanding achievement! Congrats!
Every climber with an imagination who has sat and studied that face has looked at that groove and wondered...
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