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The Charlatan
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Bad Fortune 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) 
Fancy Free 
Gemstone 
Northwest Route 
Spooky 
Superstition 

Gemstone 

5.10c

   

FA: Herb Laeger?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 175 feet
Views: 283 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006


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Description 

Around to the right of the start of Spooky is a thin fingertips crack. Climb this to the large ledge that marks the end of Spooky's P1. This crack takes tiny to small gear (RPs, stoppers, TCUs).

From the obvious ledge, stay right and climb the left-hand side of a steep, clean arete past three bolts--strenuous!

Finish on the upper portion of Spooky. Alternately, if you choose to belay atop and around the corner from the steep arete, you can finish up the final pitch of Fancy Free.


Location 

Descend from the Djin/Charlatan notch or rappel from bolts atop Spooky to access the start of this route.

Alternately, after climbing Spooky, it is possible to rappel from the bolted anchor and TR Gemstone with a 60m rope. Directionals will need to be clipped on the bolted arete and you may wish to place a piece or two.


Protection 

Tiny to 2", 3 quickdraws, slings for knobs



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By greg storino
Jul 20, 2007

I remember seeing Herb Laeger a few years ago and he mentioned that he established this route as an alternative to the offwidth on Spooky.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 5, 2009

Here is a printable topo of Gemstone from Alexander Cooper & Clint Cummins' Needles Mini Guide