White Punks on Dope 

This is a superb moderate route. Make sure to bring a 60 meter rope, as we came up short on virtually every pitch with a 50 meter rope. Also, make sure to scope out the correct crack on pitch 1 -- the one that continues all the way to the roof. We started on a crack 20 feet or so to the left, which petered out after 130 feet or so. Pitch 4 is a fairly continuous lieback crack of about one inch or less, so have plenty of gear in that range. A larger piece (#4 or #5 Camalot equivalent) is convenient for protecting the end of the pitch, but the angle is pretty low at that point, so this isn't a necessity.

Lastly -- what is the best way to descend the route? We did six full-rope rappels, which took forever. I've heard that there's an easy scramble off the other side, but I haven't done it.

The best rap requires two ropes, and would be 4 raps in my dim recollection. The key to this is realizing to move about 30' climbers left after the 3rd(?) rap, to the top of Dihedral Grope.

As recommended to me prior to climbing this route with a 60 meter rope combine the first pitch with the first part of the second and belay below the roof/alcove. The do the crux moves of pitch two with no rope drag and finish pitch 3 in two pitches. I never brought anything bigger than a #4 friend for the 4th pitch TCU’s and Aliens are good to have. I always did the friction pitch by clipping all 4 bolts just keep moving right the old guide only show 3 bolts and then straight up to belay right at the base of the final crack. That would be the original route IMO but I would recommend doing the 4 bolt version (I think the 4th bolt is on a different route but it’s there and I always clipped it). That puts you at the tree and you can move right to the original crack or do an easy 5.5 layback pitch to the top. You can do 5 or 6 raps one should be a half rope length to make for better pulling (it should be obvious when you come to a short anchor). I have also done the walk off but it is also a long descent so I would do the raps.

Great route. Do not waste your time with the #5. I had a #4 and #5 C4 and the #4 actually placed better than the #5. You will have to run out the last 25' or so of the lieback pitch which is not too bad. Even a #5 is too small to protect this and placing gear on this section would be difficlt.

Very beautiful, but certainly challenging for the grade (my second would agree). Highly recommend a 60m so the first pitch can be climbed to the roof, cutting it any shorter just wouldn't do it justice. Don't be tempted to combine pitches 2 & 3, you'll loose all communication (verbal or rope) with your belayer. Also, I think ending pitch 2 at the start of the chasm, as opposed to in the alcove, would avoid rope drag for the next pitch and make for a more comfortable belay. The layback pitch (#4) would probably be easiest if you double-up on finger sized cams and leave the big cams at home (the O-W section is too big for cams and totally safe to run-out). Bolted pitch is an awesome mind exercise! Pitch 1 gets afternoon sun while pitch 4 remains mostly shaded. GEAR NOTES: The biggest cam I used was a 64-100 mm (~#4 camalot).

I have done this route several times and agree that it is absolutely stellar. From a historical perspective the slab pitch originally did have three 1/4" bolts for protection (it was quite a ways from the third bolt to the top of pitch) but I recall that the last time I climbed it the pitch had been re-bolted with modern bolts and a 4th bolt was added to the climb. I think the fourth bolt makes it a safer and more enjoyable climb.

You can also access some of the other Needles climbs from this route to make for a long fun day.

Did WP for the second time on 6/21/08 with JP Webb and Matt Hern and was impressed with how very good and varied the climbing is -- each pitch distinctive and worthy.
Two details: on P2, after the .8+ move out of the belay and some upward traversing under a roof/corner, one gets to the "alcove." Do belay here. Running P2 and P3 together only risks a stuck rope in the obvious pinch at the bottom of said alcove. Also, it's impossible to hear your partner(s) once you're on the next big ledge (above the cavern).

P3: face climbing to the right of the chimney/cavern (on the slab) is easy and pleasant. The bottom third can be protected in two horiz. cracks. The upper 40 feet is run-out but, again, easy 5th class. Step across the cavern/ditch at the top, where an oak branch rests on the slab.