Pitch 1: either climb directly up the crack, or start to the right. Up the crack then surmount a small roof and through a tricky face crux (bolt). Belay in a groove (200 feet).
Pitch 2: Up the groove then move left past a roof and belay on a ledge (150 feet?)
I climbed this route over the weekend and didn't see any bolt protecting the tricky face crux. Did I miss something? A bolt would have been nice, cause it was a bit scary without it. Otherwise, nice route but not of the quality of Igor Unchained.
Did this route in June. The bolt is below the roof and doesn't protect the harder moves. Small nuts can be found above. If you move left above the roof it is easier than going right. This route is worth doing and was a good warm up.
We climbed it by going up and right above the roof, which feels pretty committing. Your gear are some thin wires in a left leaning crack and, even with a sling on them, climbing up and right just feels like it's going to pull them out. It's pretty solid 5.9+ face though. Like most things, not too bad once you actually commit to it.
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