The Spell 

FA:  Clark & Steres (August 1976) Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Views: 1,109 page views Submitted By: Scotty Nelson on Jul 24, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Scotty points out the Spell.

Description 

The Spell is the obvious chimney splitting the West face of the Warlock.

Pitch 1: approach pitch over a chockstone to the base of the chimney proper.

Pitch 2: a full 60m pitch up the chimney. You can walk your biggest cam up with you.

Location 

To approach the Spell, first climb the first pitch of the Howling (worthwhile warmup in itself). Now, with 2 ropes rappel into the intimidating gully on the west face. Walk about 100 feet over to the start of the route.

Protection 

Bring some big gear.

Photos of The Spell Slideshow

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I used a monstrous rack to lead The Spell.

Reid belaying me on The Spell (.10) Warlock Needle...