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The Wizard

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Southeast Arete 
Yellow Brick Road 

The Wizard

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Administrator: Matthew Fienup

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Description 

The Wizard is another small formation that sits at the foot of the Sorcerer -- actually between the Sorcerer and the Sorcerer's Apprentice. It has a host of obscure climbs on its west face and southern flank, as well as its upper shoulder. The most famous route on it is perhaps Yellow Brick Road (5.9) on the west side. I seem to recall a story about a climber who got his knee irreversibly stuck in a wide crack high on this route. His partner had to rappel back to the ground, run up to the ridge, and head all the way up to the lookout tower for help. Apparently he was able to procure the assistance of a couple other climbers and a large bottle of vegetable oil which provided the needed lubricant to get his partner out of the "jam."


Getting There 

Depending on the location of your climb, you can approach from between the Magician and Sorcerer, or by following directions listed on the Sorcerer's Apprentice page.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Wizard:
Yellow Brick Road   5.9+     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Wizard