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The Charlatan
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Bad Fortune 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) 
Fancy Free 
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Northwest Route 
Spooky 
Superstition 

Spooky 

5.9

   

FA: Smith & Laeger - August, 1976
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 175 feet
Views: 1,484 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: This summit shot, taken atop Spooky, shows the app...


Description 

Spooky is Marge's cat. It is also a great "end-of-the day climb" - especially after rapping off of the Sorcerer as it begins from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch.

P1: Climb up a fairly easy slab/face on the SW corner of the Charlatan to an obvious ledge below a right-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Belay here, or, if you runner your gear well, continue on.

P2: Ascend the OW (crux), and then continue more easily up the face and ribs of rock above. Belay at bolts on the summit.


Protection 

Light rack. One or two large pieces for the OW.



Photos of Spooky Slideshow Add Photo
Sorcerer, Magician and the Charlatan.

Sorcerer, Magician and the Charlatan.

view of first pitch

view of first pitch

second pitch

second pitch

Nearing the top.

Nearing the top.


Comments on Spooky Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2006

The first pitch that I remember is a sustained 5.8+ lieback/dihedral--and the best climbing on the route.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2006

For those uninitiated to the Needles, a great way to ease into the intense exposure of the area is to top-rope Spooky from the bolted anchor near the top of the formation. See the summit shot above for the approximate location. This requires a 60 meter rope.

Rappelling in from the top is also an expedient way to access the start.

By Jordan Ramey
From: South Pasadena, CA
Jan 16, 2008

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/spooky/

By caughtinside
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 21, 2008

You can do the whole climb in one pitch.

It was fun, but seems a bit overrated? A climbing mag write up? There are numerous better routes at the Needles. This is a fun one to top out after doing something on the Sorcerer.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 5, 2009

Here is a printable topo of Spooky from Alexander Cooper & Clint Cummins' Needles Mini Guide