Airy Interlude is perhaps the best "moderate" route on the Witch. Not as continuous as Igor Unchained, but it shares some of Igor's coolest climbing, not to mention the classic Airy Interlude traverse pitch.
P1: Ascend the first major crack system left of the start of Igor Unchained. This is directly below the start of the obvious traverse crack and really is the first major system on the wall. Stretch the rope all the way up to the huge, sloping ledge. 5.8 or 5.9.
P2: The gem. Continue up a right-facing corner to the start of the crazy hand traverse (takes 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots). At some point you'll have to mantle up above the crack, and there is a miracle hold that allows you to do this. Finish the traverse with a couple more moves that join into the final pitch of Igor Unchained.
P3: A short, easy pitch up to the summit.
Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.
Protection
Single or double set of cams - nothing big, nothing small.
A good combo, IU to the big ledge, AI to the top. You skip the first pitch of AI, which is average, basically getting the best pitches of both IU and AI. Given the traffic on both these routes, this might be hard to pull off.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 16, 2007
Wasn't this rated 5.9 in the Harlin guide?! Now it is up to 5.10b?
The Witch
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