Josh Janes on the second pitch of The Howling, Nee...
Description
The Howling is a great two-pitch climb up the NW shoulder of the Warlock and is probably the easiest passage to the summit.
P1: Begin by climbing one of two or three crack systems on the NW corner of the Warlock - right off the trail. These cracks generally go at 5.9-5.10... Choose the most aesthetic one. Belay at a cool ledge-like perch that gives good views to the south, but it may be better to move the belay around to the left and closer to the start of the second pitch.
P2: Climb up a leaning flake and sling the top for pro before committing to a move up onto the face/arete. Continue up the exposed arete via positive edges and gradually easier climbing, past an intermediate anchor and on to the summit -- a fantastic pitch protected by bolts.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Jul 23, 2007 rating: 5.10a PG13
Pitch 2: 3 bolts and a knob to sling. The move off the leaning block to the first bolt is exciting. There is a chain rap anchor on this leaning block.
This route can be rapped with a single 70m rope. From the top anchors you can just barely reach the mid anchors. Be very carefull about this as the rope ends must be exactly matched and you have a chance of rapping off them if not carefull. Even knots in the end will make the rope to short!
Nice route. Named the Howling because of the noise from the wind ripping through that slot at the block belay? Be sure to peek through there at the Terrorvision when you're there, looks rad and scary!
The guide says clipping the first bolt is scary... I have to disagree. While a fall would be bad, it's secure moves on big holds with good feet. Nothing to be afraid of.
The comment about the 70m rope for rapping the Howling is important -- it basically means you can climb anything that tops out on the Warlock with one 70m cord. When the sciroccos blow, it is no fun to have a lightweight tag line getting caught on flakes and knobs off-route. This is especially true on longer, less-done routes like Beckey's South Face, S Crack, Imaginary Voyage, etc. Just pay attention as you get to the first, bolted station and then hem towards the 'alcove' at the base of the 5.8 crap chimney variation to P1 and you should be OK.
re: 'While a fall would be bad...'
That's why the move is scary. Easy, but exposed, windy, and scary. The route itself is easy for the grade (compared to others nearby) and as such the whole package makes a good introduction to the 'feel' of many face climbs at the Needles, particularly for first-time visitors.
Plus the position on the summit of the Warlock is fantastic.
My partner and I got off the top of the Warlock (after climbing the Howling) with one 60m cord. Rap to a ledge with a big detached flake (chains) left of the Howling then to an intermediate chain anchor in the middle of the undulating dark face below you, then to the ground. The "scary" move onto the face on the Howling ain't that scary. You can even girth hitch a spike of rock pressed against the face for a little extra pro.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Jun 1, 2009 rating: 5.10a PG13
The "step-up" move is well protected and not scary at all. Higher on the face, a 10a move a little above a bolt might give some leaders pause, but the face is quite well protected in my opinion.
p1 - Fun cruiser big hands to a belay on a ledge. P2 - Did a short pitch to the stance (with chains) under P2 to avoid any rope drag P3 - Fun face climbing to the top.
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