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Dome Rock
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the Last Dihedral 

5.8 PG13

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 550 feet
Views: 226 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 20, 2008


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Rob Chaney cleans the Last Dihedral, at Dome Rock....


Description 

Layback, undercling and face climb up the massive, right-facing dihedral for two pitches. While the massive dihedral looks breath-taking from a distance, all should be warned that various parts of the route contain massive, detached flakes or moss-choked cracks. Placing solid gear is impossible for large stretches of the easier portions of the route.

The physical crux of the route is climbing past positive edges on the first 10 feet of the route. After gaining the main dihedral, the route is mostly 5.4 with sections of 5.7. As alluded to, the psychological crux is climbing with non-existent or completely sketchy protection through several sections of the route.

Once atop the dihedral, on a large ledge, step left and either climb a crack up the headwall or rappel with 2 ropes from a tree. If continuing, belay from gear at a small, uncomfortable stance atop the next pitch. One pitch of easy, runout slab climbing leads to the top of the Dome.


Location 

On the far south-side of the Dome, hard to miss


Protection 

1/2" to 5", doubles (or triples) #3 and #4 camalots are useful.

The route also sports 2 lead bolts, both of which are 3/8" buttonheads. There is a bolted belay atop pitch 1 that consists of a buttonhead and a solid Petzl Longlife bolt.



Photos of the Last Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rob Chaney nears the top of pitch 1 of the Last Dihedral at Dome Rock

Rob Chaney nears the top of pitch 1 of the Last Di...