Nate Conroy well past the crux and cruising on the...
Description
P1: A true sport route (as long as you don't expect solid, modern bolts). 7 bolts to a ledge with rappel anchors (for those wishing to retreat) OR 9 bolts to the original P1 belay. The crux is reaching the first bolt (10+). There are a few 5.10 moves to the second bolt, then the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.9+ climbing on delicate smears with the occasional thin edge. Sport climbers who plan to lower from the first anchor should consider top roping the left-hand variation past three bolts and a shallow crack (5.10c R/X) and "the Good Samaritan" (5.11+ PG13), a breath-taking exercise in friction on the right-hand side.
P2: From the higher anchor, P2 sets off through a series of small roofs (5.7, protected by three bolts, no gear) This section is not a sport route and feels significantly runout. Next, a large roof (small to medium gear) is encountered. Belay just above the roof from two bolts.
P3: Long, runout slab climbing leads to the top.
Location
This route is the obvious line of bolts and conspicuous series of roofs just to the right of "the Last Dihedral," a massive right-facing corner on the far south side of Dome Rock.
Protection
Standard rack, 7-10 quickdraws.
The bolts are a strange mix of 3/8" Rawls along with buttonheads of 2 different generations.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 24, 2006
According to the Mosher/Vernon/Paul guidebook, the first pitch originally sported just 6 bolts. Three newer bolts fill in the gaps, making the route one of the most tightly bolted on the Dome. A lower P1 anchor was also added more recently. Sport climbers should not continue to the original, higher anchor unless carrying 2 ropes.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 24, 2008
Climbing past the first two bolts on this route is feeling harder than ever. I climbed this route the other day and the holds seemed weathered. I actually would have said 5.10d or 11a. The remainder of the route still felt like sustained 9+.
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