P1 (5.5): Start as for Tree Route. From atop the large Pine Tree, locate a 2-3" crack and follow it up and left. Belay from a shallow horizontal ledge at the start of a stunning finger crack.
P2 (5.9+ sustained): Truly classic!! Follow a left-leaning finger crack that arcs left along a clean slab. The crack starts as solid fingers and slowly tapers down to nothing. Take the time to find decent, sloping footholds out to the left. The crack takes many TCUs & small stoppers. As the crack tapers and disappears, face climb up and left to a hanging-belay from bolts.
P3 (5.10a): Step left and follow an obvious left-facing dihedral. As the corner curves to the right, the crack in the dihedral diminishes. The final 30 feet is the crux and requires small TCUs & stoppers. Belay from the 3-bolt anchor atop Tree Route's 3rd pitch.
P4 (5.6): Follow the final pitch of the Tree Route to a belay beneath an obvious horizontal crack.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 23, 2006
The second pitch is the single best pitch I've done for the grade! And one of my favorites anywhere.
A great variation is to climb P2 until the splitter finger crack ends, then follow an obvious 3-inch crack up and right to the second belay of Tree Route. Follow Tree Route to the top.
The 3 inch crack you mentioned for the P2 variation is more of a finger crack (at the beginning) and then widens to big fists. Also with a 70 meter rope you can belay from the ground and make it to the belay anchor at the top of the 5.9 splitter crack.
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