Stairway to Heaven 

FA:  Dave Black, Dave Hamburg & Mike Graber 1973 (5.9 A4) FFA John Long, Lynn Hill & Bob Gains Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] Length:  4 pitches, 500 feet Views: 187 page views Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 28, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Stairway to Heaven requires a full repertoire of climbing skills to surmount the cruxes on the first and third pitches. Expect a mix strenuous and technical climbing with mystery footwork and body positions.

P1: Layback up a left leaning wide crack that varies from 2.5" to 4". When the crack pinches out make some exciting moves, 5.11+, up the corner to a bolt. From here do the crux moves, 5.11++/5.12-, to gain a ledge and the tree belay shared with The Flakes.

P2. From the tree layback up a corner 5.10- with the occasional rest until you pull up and left onto a large ledge with two bolts. This belay is also shared with The Flakes. This pitch can easily be linked with the first.

P3. Stand up on a shaky block to gain the first crimps and make a series of interesting moves to clip the first bolt. A locker is recommended here to keep you off the ledge if you miss the 2nd clip. Crimping, a big highstep and some trickery, 5.11++, will get the next bolt clipped and set you up for the hardest moves of the route! Work up a right leaning undercling feature with poor feet and make hard moves, 5.12, to gain a small ledge with a pin. Get established and stand up on this rail and clip the final bolt. Traverse right with an exciting starfish type move to descend to a lower foot ledge. Pass a horrible looking fixed nut and levitate across a 5.11 slab to finish on the Vampire direct anchors.

P4. Traverse right on 5.10 slab, possibly R, and connect with the Vampire and finish per that route.

Location 

Start from the Vampire ledge which is easily accessed by the From Bad traverse and a bit of 5.7. Start a the left side of the ledge just below and right of the start to The Flakes.

Protection 

A single set of cams to 4" + slings and draws, more if linking P1 & P2. The 3rd pitch is almost all fixed gear with an optional nut at the end.

When seconding the third pitch the follower can open up the quicklink on the final bolt in order to protect the tricky downclimbing. Once on the next ledge it is possible to tie in on a bight and then untie the main rope so you can pull it though the quicklink.