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West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)
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Twinkletoes 

The Great Gazoo 

5.12-

   

FA: T.S. and T.M. Sept. 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 165 feet
Views: 84 page views

Submitted By: Murf on Aug 5, 2009


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Description 

A interesting face climb that climbs a fairly direct line up the West Face.

Start in the right side of the flakes system (what I would consider right of the start of Switchbacks) and climb directly up to the bush on the small ledge. From the bush climb straight up past 2 bolts (crux) to another small ledge. Follow the ledge to the right, then up and left past an overlap to a bolt. Continue up past two more bolts (.11-) to the ledge system that crosses the face (this same ledge continues all the way to The Quarry/Blankety Blank anchor). From there, climb a short headwall with a bolt to the left side of a roof. Tricky moves protected by a fixed pin lead to a 2 bolt anchor.

To descend you need two ropes. Alternately, one can just reach the anchor on the first pitch of Fred with a 60m rope.

The crux is a devious move, best done in the shade, followed by a powerful pull on thin edges.


Location 

The pitch starts somewhat the same as Switchbacks, and can be identified by the bush located on a ledge about 25' up.


Protection 

6 bolts, 1 pin, a few finger size pieces, and a large piece.



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By Murf
Aug 5, 2009

The grade is tentative,due to the fact that I don't know if it has seen a second ascent.