The Edge 

FA:  Tobin Sorensen, 1975 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  2 pitches, 200 feet Views: 219 page views Submitted By: Bruce Diffenbaugh on Feb 11, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route ascends the left edge/arete of the Open Book dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.

The Turbo Flange variation takes a direct start past a bolt to join the Edge from below. Truly a dynamic line!

Location 

Left of the Open Book.

Protection 

Bolts