This route can be reached from the first pitch of The Illegitimate (5.9.). Exit right from the belay to reach a large and green lichen covered flake(10c). Climb the flake up through a small roof and onto a steep face (10d). Some slabby moves will lead you up past two old bolts (1/4") and then finish on a short section of the The Illegitimate for a belay at a large pine tree.
This route would be a fun lead, but the old quarter inch bolts may not hold a fall. It is possible to lower from the pine tree and toprope the climb.
Protection
The flake should protect well using cams up to 4"; nuts may also be utilized in a thin parallel crack. The bolts on this climb are rusty old quarter inch button heads. If you set up a toprope be sure to use some pieces for directionals as the rope does not fall directly upon the flake.
Belay at the base of a killer thin crack with small bushes growing out of it about 50' below Zeno's dihedral. We approached via White Maiden's Walkaway better choice would be via The Illegitimate (exit Illigetimate 1/2 way or so up its 2nd pitch small ledge at base of thin crack). Belay takes .4 thru #1.
Climb off the belay into a nice tips crack (10a) (mind the shrubbery) pro thin cams (blue TCU, green Alien). Then get on up into the bomber, colorful, pumpy, granite dihedral crack. I placed a #3.5, 2 #3's, and one #2 (thin crack pro is available). At the top of the dihedral you encounter awsome moves surmounting the roof (med pro - yellow Alien, orange TCU) (Downclimable), then got up to the holy shit bolts. Should have checked here before the climb. Downclimbed and traversed into Illigitimate. Onsight ruined. new bolts coming? Super climb! Bomber rock!
Maiden Buttress
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