This route is easy to find – a huge right-facing corner just to the left of the Larks. There are multiple overhangs on the route, and you need to move out away from the main crack in one or two places. It is a sustained, quality route. The belay ledges are quite small, making this a poor choice for a party of more than two people.
If you have a 60M rope and do a short, (about 60 Ft) first pitch, you end up with comfortable belays with good anchors at the end of each pitch. Go up and a little left after the summit overhang (where El Wampo, etc. join) for a better finish.
This route was excellent. Very sustained climbing, i would not hesitate to say its sandbagged at 5.6. The topo has a 5.7 section drawn on it in the latest book, which i guess you can skirt to the left. Not sure what you are supposed to do near the top, we followed the corner straight up, which was good, but didnt seem very traveled. We tried this idea of a 60' P1, belayed atop the dihedral wall just before the climbing gets really interesting. THis allowed tree belays for the rest of the route, although they were still not spacious. I was so surprised by wht this route offered, probably the best 5.6 Ive done at Tahquitz (i am pretty new here, so maybe there are better ones) - and while not as stunning as El Whampo, I found it better and more challenging overall due to the sustained quality moves. I thought a #3 camalot was nice to have along. My experience may have been heightened due to the dense blanket of pine needles that cover the crack in many places!! Exciting!
North Face
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