Looking up at the roof of The Souvenir (roof is in...
Description
P1) Climb up 4th class to belay at ledge same as The Error (5.6).
P2) Climb up the to the right of the 5.8 dihedral traverse roof to the right and clip fixed pins for pro. Very sustained roof (5.10c). Continue up to belay ledge.
P3) Crux pitch, climb right leaning small hands crack to small tree, then up past one bolt. Make sure you have your micro nuts for this pitch. Then work your way up and very this and sustained seam, protect the bottom with a .4 cam. Climb seam to bolt and past 3 more bolts, crux 5.10d. This pitch still keeps going, it is 165 feet long. Continue up crack that is 2-3 inches to a ledge where you will belay.
P4) Be careful with the loose blocks on this one above the belay, you don't want to knock these suckers off. From here its 5.9, i would rate it a 10c/d.
For the rest of the climb follow crack system and connect pitches to make it 6 or 7 pitches. You decide where you want to belay but there is a fixed pin and a crack that works well. You can combine the 5 and 6 pitch and then a short 7th pitch. then once at the top 4th class scramble to the summit.
Also a fair warning I doubt this gets much climbing because of the grade and sustained runout nature of the climb, so rock here on the slabs in the early art of the season can be a little flaky making the crux slab extremely hard, but not impossible for a good slab climber.
Location
Start on the northwest recess, the same as the error or Sahara terror, pick any line that will get you on the ledge below the big roof to the right of the northwest buttress.
To get down normal decent is the north class 3 gully.
Protection
Micros to #3, make sure you have one set of nuts, one set of micros and having doubles of the smaller cams are helpful although not needed. Bring 2 and 4 foot slings for belays and slinging trees.
If you are going to take the trouble to post a route, please try to at least be literate. The route name is Souvenir, not Souvineer. It was put up by Bob Gaines and Charlie Peterson, in August of 1995, not the 60's. I can't imagine why you'd need a 70m rope as noted in the photo. Why you'd rate it 10c/d when you needed to be lowered to get the 10c roof free makes no sense. There is only one R section on the route, and that is the beginning of the 3rd pitch. The rest of the route is actually quite well protected.
Northwest Recess
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