This two pitch route connects to the upper part of Jensen’s Jaunt. The first pitch (5.9) is a nice warmup for the crux second pitch. It is a very thin lieback in a large dihedral. The crack is too thin for fingers (for most people), so unusual techniques are needed to climb up to the point where you can exit around to the face on the right.
PG13 rating given due to the fact that the crack gets so thin that it doens't take any more gear. At this point you exit the dihedral and climb the face/arete on your right. After 10 or more feet you can place a thin micronut in the seam on the face.
I agree about the PG rating. Good gear up until the stance where you move to the face. Felt about 5.9 at the seam above. You wouldn't want to fall here.
I believe that I used down to a #4 stopper when the crack thinned. Nothing really thin. I agree with the PG, you have to make some 5.8 or 5.9 moves 10 feet above some small nuts.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: The Idyllwild City Dump. Feb 12, 2008 rating: 5.10+
This is a cool route to do and combine it with the Traitor Horn or any of the other finishing routes in the True Horn alcove.Such as Pealy Gate.
West Face - Right Side
RSS Feed
