BETA PHOTO: The route, with approximate belay sites. The firs...
Description
This is a long, varied route up a buttress. From Lunch Rock, you can see the buttress to your left. The buttress is sharp in the lower third, up to the flat top of a large rock tooth, and rounded above that. Start on the left side of the buttress and climb up to reach the skyline near the top of the rock tooth. From here, go up, left around an exposed corner, up for a pitch of 4th class, and then back right on a ramp to a belay below the final pitch. The last pitch follows an exposed fingertip traverse to the right, and then goes up on 4th class friction to the top.
Careful, it is easy to get off route. There are a lot of clean lines up the buttress that climb harder than 5.6.
By Marc Kajut Administrator Sep 2, 2006 rating: 5.6
The natural line of this climb should take you through some 5.4 to 5.6 movements. I'd highly recommend finishing WMW via the direct 5.7 line. Highly enjoyable and protectable.
By Bill Olszewski From: San Diego, CA Mar 10, 2007 rating: 5.4
Awesome climb! For anyone who doesn't bother climbing anything this "easy", you're really missing out on a fun climb. Not sure why this page rates WMW as 5.1, it's listed as 5.4 in the guide and I agree. P4 is the money lead - that exposed step around makes the climb, when after almost 4 pitches of comfortable climbing the rock falls away beneath you, 500 feet to the bottom of the Long Climb.
Although the 5.3 finish is exposed and fun, you're right about the final pitch Marc. Great 5.7 finish! And the 5.3 traverse variation to pitch 3 is a lot more fun than the 5.1 standard line.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA May 13, 2007 rating: 5.6
The 5.6 variation to the first half of the second pitch (a little to the left of the original route) is a great hand and lieback crack that will call your name from the belay. Make sure to cut back right to the top of a tower feature for a comfy belay.
Unless your looking for an adventure, bring the route topo photo someone kindly included and try to follow it.
I found many moves on this climb which are in the 5.6 or even 5.7 range, (particularly going up and right from top of gendarme rather than up and left).
The pro is not always as available as one would think for a supposed 5.1. The rock on this side of Tahquitz is pretty weathered compared to the west and south sides, with flared or pod like cracks that are not as easy to place pieces in. If you can bring thinner cams that might help. 1/4"-1" gear seems most usable.
I wouldn't recommend this route to slow parties starting late or new leaders - it takes more route finding, has tougher moves and more difficult pro placements than many other higher grade routes at Tahquitz.
By EricT From: Santa Barbara, CA Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.5
From the top of pitch 3 (the first pitch after the lower buttress spike) we deviated straight up instead of going left on the big ledge to the bushes. The climbing was excellent, but the rock was pretty hollow. This ended up connecting us to the Fools Rush as it switched dihedral directions.
Maiden Buttress
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