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Dave's Deviation 
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Upper Royal's Arch 

Dave's Deviation 

5.9

   

FA: Tom Frost and Royal Robbins, 1960
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 642 page views

Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006


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This is a photo of Dave Deviation with The Vampire...


Description 

This route starts just right of The Jam Crack. Pitch 1 (5.9) is a very nice, clean finger and thin hands crack. Pitch 2 (5.9) starts at the left end of the Pitch 1 belay ledge. It is less sustained than pitch 1, with face climbing up a groove, then a tricky move over an overhang. Pitch 3 (5.8 R) has very poor protection, but fun climbing up a thin dihedral and face above. The route finishes at Pine Tree Ledge.


Protection 

Standard rack



Add Photo Photos of Dave's Deviation
Dave's Deviation is finger crack with bush growing out of it.

Dave's Deviation is finger crack with bush growing...

Tom Donnelly leading the first pitch of Dave's, just below the infamous finger crack.

Tom Donnelly leading the first pitch of Dave's, ju...

Top section of pitch 1,"Dave's Deviation".<br /><br /><br />

Top section of pitch 1,"Dave's Deviation".





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By David Wang
From: San Diego, CA
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.9 R

One can reach the pine tree ledge from the bolted belay at the end of the first pitch with a single 60m rope. Combining pitches might even be preferable as the optional belay is semi-hanging and puts the anchor perilously close to the run out slab section.

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.9

The start of this route can be identified by a small tree/bush growing out of the crack midway up the first pitch. The original start is from the left, starting up The Jam Crack. A 5.10c direct start leads up from the right which passes a small roof and then a bolt and hits the crack below the tree.

One 60m rope will get you back to the ground from the top of P1.

By John Schirmer
From: Canyon Country, CA
Aug 6, 2006
rating: 5.9

Great route to climb when all others are taken up. Caution your belayer for he will be distracted from protecting your lead by what ever party is bailing from The Vampire. Some epics occur on that route and are in plain view from the belay stance.

Never did this whole multi pitch route. But Pitch one is classic fingers.

By Dan Hickstein
Apr 6, 2007

An incredible first pitch, but don't head down too soon! Combining this climb with the excellent 5.7+ pitch of Piton Pooper to the insane 5.8 pitch of Upper Royal's Arch is, in my book, the best climb of it's grade at Tahquitz. If you're looking for a little more challenge in your day try Dave's without touching the tree! (5.11?)

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.9

Fricken' awesome finger crack on the first pitch. A little painful on the feet, but more than worth it. Bring small nuts!