P1 5.10b. A thin crack heads up a little buttress to the left of Angels Fright chimney to end on a ledge with a tree.
P2 5.10c. Crux pitch. Up to a thin crack then thin moves over on overlap, straight up to a ledge.
P3 5.9. Wander up a face to a ledge with bushes.
P4 5.10a. A wild pitch. Up past a couple of bolts to a blank impasse, a "you've gotta be kidding me" traverse right (and down a little) heads to an arch which is followed to the outrageous "Ubangi Lips" (or Whale's Mouth) a kind of horizontal bomb-bay chimney which turns out to be okay - through this at a weakness to a ledge.
P5 Steps and an easy corner lead up to another ledge.
P6 5.10b. Thin face climbing in a lonely position leads past a couple of bolts and to the top.
Location
Start just left of Angel's Fright chimney. Descend The Friction Route.
Notes from a recent ascent: - P1 is at least as hard as P6, although not as sustained. It is also my belief that there is bad fall potential here, not that far off the deck, especially if you are under 5'11". I give it an 'R' rating. - P1 and P2 can easily be combined. - I'd agree P2 is not the crux, and is much easier than P1 and P6. - I have now backed off a direct line on P3 more than once. It would seem that you should go directly or slightly right from the first small tree to the big one. No way this is 5.9, and there is a bad fall here. I've always went left and touched The Blank before fighting the tree to the belay right. - P4 and P5 can be combined if you are heads up on extending and perhaps backcleaning the Ubangi Lips. - The P5 Belay needs a few large pieces.
In the future I would climb this as: P1 - P1 of The Blank combined with P2 of Jonah. P2 - The layback/offwidth pitch of The Blank. P3 - P4 and P5 of Jonah. P6 - P6 of Jonah.
There are 3 bolts on P6, which is not reflected in the newer guide, nor the OP's description. I know that there has been three for at least 8 years or so. Typo or retro?
I pulled a jib off of the first pitch and took a ride on a widdeled down blue alien and deployed the full length of a screamer, i would take this route seriously and i would also give it an r rating, the ride was in full view of a first time climber belaying her boyfriend up the first pitch of angels fright, the horror on her face was worth its weight in gold.
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