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Jonah 

5.10c

   

FA: T.Higgins, R.Coats, M.Cohen - August 1964
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 6 pitches
Season: Spring or Fall
Views: 288 page views

Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 12, 2006


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Description 

A good route with something for everyone.

P1 5.10b. A thin crack heads up a little buttress to the left of Angels Fright chimney to end on a ledge with a tree.

P2 5.10c. Crux pitch. Up to a thin crack then thin moves over on overlap, straight up to a ledge.

P3 5.9. Wander up a face to a ledge with bushes.

P4 5.10a. A wild pitch. Up past a couple of bolts to a blank impasse, a "you've gotta be kidding me" traverse right (and down a little) heads to an arch which is followed to the outrageous "Ubangi Lips" (or Whale's Mouth) a kind of horizontal bomb-bay chimney which turns out to be okay - through this at a weakness to a ledge.

P5 Steps and an easy corner lead up to another ledge.

P6 5.10b. Thin face climbing in a lonely position leads past a couple of bolts and to the top.


Location 

Start just left of Angel's Fright chimney. Descend The Friction Route.


Protection 

Standard rack with small pieces and quickdraws.



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By Scotty Nelson
From: San Diego
Sep 5, 2006

The crux is the slab move on Pitch 6 -- a very thin move, it is rated 5.10d in the book. I would agree.

The 10c on pitch 2 is pretty straightforward if you know how to hand jam. I would even say it's a bit soft.