This climb starts high on the rock, and is about ten feet to the left of the crux pitch of Traitor Horn. Climb the easy initial pitch or two of Traitor Horn. Then climb up into the alcove and ascend the crack on the left side. It widens from #3 friend to #4 or #4.5 friend size. Lieback up the vertical crack for about twelve feet to where the crack steepens. Continue to lieback and undercling (exciting) up to the lip, and exit to easy ground and a belay. Easy fifth class friction leads to the top.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: The Idyllwild City Dump. Mar 17, 2008 rating: 5.9
Just to be clear, as you face the true horn in the alcove this route is the crack in the left corner.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Jul 7, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Got succered into this lead by a friend who told me it "has good jams". "Looks wide to me", I said. Nonetheless, I headed up leaving the #4 behind. My gear selection wasn't too bad but I burned up both #3s lower down. I then had to lower to retrieve the bottom one for higher up on the climb, which worked out well. My point is, this is harder for those of us with skinny hands (maybe I missed out on the layback) and also you can protect well with #3 C4 camalots if you save them for up high, however it does widen right near the top so a larger cam could find some use.
West Face - Right Side
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