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West Face - Right Side
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Angle Iron Traverse 
Coffin Nail 
Edge, The 
El Camino Real 
Fingergrip 
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Fingertrip 
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Last Judgment 
On the Road 
Pearly Gate 
Shit for Brains 
Slab, The 
Toe Tip 
Traitor Horn 

Coffin Nail 

5.7+

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 850 page views

Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: A good view of P.2. climb Solid on this one and ye...


Description 

This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensen’s Jaunt.


Protection 

extra hand size pieces



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By The Gray Tradster
Feb 25, 2006

The best way to approach Traitor Horn or Pearly Gates

By criscokid
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007

Climbed outside the wide gully at the beginning. On the face to the left I actually found a few new bolts (is this some 'new' route?), that although runout, were really easy to follow. I was able to rejoin the crack right when it steepens and becomes tight hands for a few moves. I thought the the roof jam crack at the top was fantastic! Used this route to approach "Traitor Horn."

By tony grice
Aug 28, 2007

The best 5.8 crack on Tahquitz. A must do. Hey crisco I think you were on the arete moves on P.1 of El Camino real.