From Lunch Rock, walk right until the rock starts to curve sharply around to your right. Start the climb by going up a third class gully to a tree below an overhang. Climb the tree and exit left around the overhang, and then continue up easy ground to the top of a shrubby area and belay. An obvious right-facing lieback (5.3) goes up to a broken area and an optional belay. Step around left to the obvious fingertrip traverse which gives the route its name. Continue up and left along this crack to easier ground. Broken 4th class climbing takes you up to Lunch Ledge. The easiest way to the top from here is to move up over some three foot steps. Continue up and right along an obvious gully to the shoulder of the rock.
Easier than Fingertrip. But nowhere near as classic. I suppose if you want a multi-pitch experience with no difficulty at all, this route is ok. But there are better routes.
I could disagree more with cisco. Mathematically, it's impossible. As a beginner's climb, I can think of few better routes, with the possible exception of, say, the East Face of the Third Flatiron. From the step across out of the tree on the first pitch, the exposed lieback on pitch 2, the even more exposed fingertip traverse on pitch 3, it's just all too good. Do it and you'll see.
By Brian Hench From: Laguna Beach Aug 10, 2009 rating: 5.5
I would think that many would want to rope up for the "third class gully". It seem more like fourth class to me. If you have a beginner in tow, I wouldn't ask him or her to solo that gully.
We finished the traverse pitch by continuing up and left to a large tree located above and right of lunch ledge. From here we continued up Angel's Fright and finished with the slab at the top. A total of four pitches.
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