This four pitch route is quite sustained, with the pitches rated 5.9, 5.10A, 5.10A, and 5.9. It starts 20 feet left of Angel’s Fright. Climb the short left-facing dihedral (not the more difficult thin crack just to its right) via finger jamming, and belay on a large ledge. Pitch 2 goes up over the right side of an overhang (fun), and up to a hidden belay ledge above. Pitch 3 is a clean, wide, right-facing corner with liebacks, hand and fist jams, and a few offwidth moves. On pitch 4, climb up to a bolt, and then traverse left to easy ground. From here, you can move left to Pine Tree ledge, or right to Lunch Ledge.
Protection
Bring two or three pieces in the 3.5 to 4 inch range for pitch 3.
Did the first two pitches of this route last weekend. looking at the topo, it looks like it should go up the finger crack splitting the large portion of the roof on p.2 - I am now pretty sure this is not the "standard" route - we eventually made it up that way after maybe 8 falls, but it is undoubtably harder than 10a - I'd give it more like firm 10c or so. I'm not sure, but it was pretty hard. shaken, we bailed off onto the final pitches of angel's fright.
it looks like you could go up the offwidth/lieback crack on the left of the roof, or maybe around to the right of the big portion of the roof. anybody know a) what the center finger crack is? and b) the "official" route?
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