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West Face - Left Side
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Blank, The 
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Upper Royal's Arch 

The Jam Crack 

5.8

   

FA: Royal Robbins and Don Wilson, September 1959
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 388 page views

Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006


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Description 

The crux first pitch gives this route its name. The climb starts a short distance to the right of The Trough. Go around a corner, across a low angle face, and into the prominent wide crack. Sustained jamming and offwidth leads to the crux overhang, and then to a belay ledge with bolts. For pitch 2 (5.6) , traverse right to a left-facing corner, which leads to some delicate face climbing. Pitch 3 (5.6) is less obvious, and the Vogel guidebook describes a different pitch than did earlier guides. The original route (5.7) involved an undercling/lieback up and right, then face climbing up to Pine Tree Ledge.


Protection 

Gear to a #4 Camalot.



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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.8

One 60m rope will get you to the ground from the top of P1.

By john durr
Aug 19, 2007

Maybe follow piton pooper to upper royal arches to the top, yum, yum!

By Carl A
Jun 9, 2008

I got a great thigh jam on this puppy right off the deck.