Getting to the base of this route is more difficult than climbing it. It is usually used as an exit pitch after doing a hard climb below (e.g. The Passover). The arch is large and obvious.
Actually, this route is usually done as an excellent way to finish off Piton Pooper. Instead of doing the easy second pitch (or upper part) of Piton Pooper, head up and left to a belay ledge. Then climb this fun, clean and quite exposed pitch which heads over the upper headwall.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 7, 2006
Yes - The Jam Crack (or better but a little harder, Dave's Deviation) combined with Piton Pooper and Upper Royal's Arch is a classic combo IMHO. I highly recommend it.
By David Wang From: San Diego, CA May 22, 2006 rating: 5.8
liebacking the arch becomes difficult as the crack thins to mere finger tips. The easier way is to leave the crack as it thins and wander left onto the face. There are actually gear placements on the face.
5.8 as long as the leader is competent at finding the right path across the slab. Should you get overwhelmed by the exposure (like I did), look to the left and be thankful that you are not on the Vampire!
West Face - Left Side
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